Sunday, November 2, 2008

Tuscan Autumn












We spent the past two days driving across the Tuscan landscape....we started in Firenze where we rented a car.  We spent a few hours exploring there...one of the most interesting things was the Ponte Vecchi (Old Bridge).  It is the oldest surviving bridge and has shops that have organically sprouted off of it, like colorful little barnacles clinging to it's sides.  The entire length of it is occupied with jewelry stores, as it has been since 1593!  I also followed my senses to find the local market, which had the most fantastic displays of meat I have ever seen.  I bought mzarella di bufala and grapes.

We left Firenze for Spannocchia, an argritourism farm, where they grow as much of their own food as possible, and stay afloat by a tourism based on education of sustainable agriculture.  Their particular approach is to protect several of the local endangered species, including a pig called cinta senese, as well as a species of cow and sheep.  I got to ask the director a million questions about the farm on our tour that evening.  That night we had a family style dinner with other guests and the interns, many of which were coincidentally from California.  Later that night we went to the Halloween party put on the internships.  In the spirit of supporting their efforts (and yes, because I love food), I bought some of their proscuitto, red wine, farro, and honey, as well as a recipe book.

The next morning, after going on a beautiful foggy hike around the farm, we headed for Siena.  On the way we stopped at an old monastery called    .  The roof is completely gone, so it was interesting to experience the church prototype in this new way.  In Siena we spent most of our limited time in the Piazza del Campo, hands down the most monumental public space I've ever been to.  Siena is such a fun town to explore- it is a perfect example of medieval organic development.  (SEE PICTURE)  All of the streets curve and wind, but with the Piazza as their anchor, it is surprising difficult to get lost.  Here I bought panforte, a sweet bread which is a local specialty.

On the drive back to Rome, we stopped by Pienza, a small little medieval town with gorgeous panoramic views of the rolling hills of Tuscany.  We also stopped by Montepulciano, renowned for it's wine, which we sampled in a cheese and wine shop.  Right around this time the sun was setting, staining the sky orange and shading the clouds purple.  When we got home, the 5 of us had dinner together, sampling the proscuitto and pecorino purchases of the day.  Today, it is back to work!

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